If this is the case, ignore and move on, it’s unlikely these are causing you issues. ![]() If it appears as if there’s no obvious way that the heatsink is held down on the chip, it’s using thermal glue or thermal tape to form the bond. NtFirstly, make sure that the heatsink is attached via mounting holes to the circuit board, rather than directly to the chip. If you want to make sure that things are fine, you’re going to need some isopropyl alcohol and thermal compound. NtThere’s a small possibility that the thermal conduction between your CPU or GPU and its heatsink isn’t optimal, causing things to overheat. NtThis is more applicable for the desktop, but the same basic principles apply for a laptop. But if this is one step too far, you could always just replace it. NtIf a fan continues grinding or ticking after you’ve cleaned it, there’s a chance that you can always add extra lubrication. NttNow restart your PC, and while the fans are spinning, spray them once more - very briefly - to really send the dust flying. Repeat the process for each fan, keeping the can upright at all times. If possible, aim just beneath the centre, where the motor meets the fan assembly, and blast again. Finally, blow the blades of the rear exhaust fan clean. NttNext, blow into the intake fan (if there is one) to push more dust out the back. Starting with the power supply, blow through the internal slits from inside the chassis, aiming so dust will exit the back. NttStart by powering down your PC, removing the case lid and locating the various fans. NtNext, you’ll want to get your fans and heatsinks clean. Now, working from the top down, blow out all that dust (put on a dust mask, unless you want a face full of grime) … be sure to spray air in short bursts, keeping the can upright and the tube at least a couple of inches from the hardware. NttBefore you start blasting, unplug your computer and take it outside - or at least to your garage. The beauty of compressed air is that it’s clean and particle-free. Also, you risk blowing out sizable particles, which could physically damage internal components, especially if you’re using a workshop vacuum. The dust inside a household vacuum can be harmful to your health, and you’ll be spreading it all over your PC. NttOn that same note, don’t be tempted to reverse the flow of your vacuum and blow the dust out of the computer. Vacuums create static electricity, which is deadly to sensitive electronic components. Ntt…you might be tempted to stick a vacuum-cleaner hose inside and suck out the dust. ![]() There are other issues with using a vacuum cleaner, too, as Brian Cooley of CNET tells us: We’ve known people to have sucked capacitors right off the board. Make sure to avoid vacuum cleaners - or at least getting overzealous with them. You could use a moist paper towel and cotton buds to get into harder-to-reach areas, but one of the best tools you can employ is a can of compressed air. NtThe first step is to remove general dust from around the system. If you’re out of warranty, and you’re confident of navigating the maze in most laptops, go for it. NtCleaning out the dust is easier if you’ve got a desktop rather than a laptop - you can still clear the dust away from vents in the laptop, but be wary about opening it up to do a thorough clean, as depending on the vendor this may invalidate your warranty. If your system overheats, it’ll likely throttle its performance down to cope. NtDust build-up over time can impede airflow, and airflow is vital for keeping system temperatures down. Craig Simms of ZDNet Australia takes a look at some of the possible ways to motivate a PC that runs like a turtle and bring it back up to speed. There are some things you can do about it. NtIs your computer moving at a crawl? Don’t give up.
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